California Wine Changed Forever In 1972, and It’s Far from Finished

Although it wasn’t apparent then, 1972 was a pivotal year in American and Californian winemaking. It’s difficult to believe that there was ever a time when California wasn’t on everyone’s radar. Fine wine was a synonym for European wine in the 1970s, especially French or Italian. Great Chardonnay came from Burgundy by definition. World-class Cabernet Sauvignon was also from Bordeaux.

But suppose Americans have a national ethos, any one thing we have been able to agree on despite our sometimes passionate disagreements and divisions. In that case, it is a philosophy based upon stubbornness. Tell us that we can’t do something, and we will work like mad trying to prove you wrong. Since the beginning, this country has strived for the impossible. In the early 1970s, it seemed impossible to prove the Eurocentric wine world wrong.

That’s exactly what happened. That year was the birth of some of America’s most important and iconic wine producers. Although they didn’t know it, Chateau Montelena and Jordan would change the perception of California’s potential. They have been known as the “Class 1972” over the years, and this year marks their 50th anniversary.

It was amazing and highlighted the larger trends shaping Napa and Sonoma’s wine industries. However, it proved that some stubborn assumptions could sometimes be wrong. Sauvignon Blanc, for example, is not something most people would keep in their cellars for long periods of time unless it was a white Bordeaux from an exceptional chateau or one of the famous Pouilly-Fumes by Didier Dagueneau. It’s also generally accepted that California Sauvignon Blanc can’t withstand time. However, the 1994 Dry Creek Vineyards Fume blanc was still in good shape a year before I graduated from high school. Its aromas of thyme and blistered jalapenos and grapefruit oils set the stage for flavors like nougat, honey and loads of herbs, all of which are pumped through with still-vibrant acids.

Chateau Montlena also delivered the thunder with a magnum their 1990 Chardonnay. Larger bottles age slower than standard 750ml bottles. This is due to the difference in liquid to air ratios. The 32-year-old stunner was a great example of how smart magnums can be used as an investment for aging. The nose was dominated by honey-coated almonds with mashed fennel bulbs, followed by a smooth, silky palate that featured mint, lemon oils and coriander. It ended with a long, savory finish.

This was a wine tasting and it was primarily a red-wine tasting. Seeing five decades of them side by side was eye-opening. According to common wisdom, Napa and Sonoma reds are made in a certain style. They are full-throttle, rich with fruit and alcohol and may not be at their best after many decades of cellaring. The Class of 1972 tasting proved that this was wrong. Glass after glass of wine after glass proved it. Jordan showed the perfect balance between acidity and ripeness with their 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon. Its red and black raspberries, cherries, and wines were vibrant and concentrated, and promised another three decades of evolution. Their 1999 was still strong, with jasmine and wild strawberries and candied apples on their nose, as well as a bright and concentrated palate of cherries and blood oranges, thyme and green olives, minerals, and tobacco. It was stunning.

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars presented their 2002 S.L.V. Cab started out on a dark and muscular note. The aromas of leather and cured black olives along with singed sage, mint created a rich, dense palate. This wine is in a great place right now. Chateau Montelena’s 2002 Cab was equally impressive, although it was more sappier and floral. It featured violets and bluebonnets ahead of green peppercorn spice and cherry pits. There were also hints of sarsaparilla. They showed how two different styles of Cabernet can be equally attractive despite being expressed in different ways.

It was the 1972 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars S.L.V. The most remarkable Cabernet Sauvignon was the 1972 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars S.L.V. The wine has a full-bodied, unexpected aroma of apple fritters and apricot pits. It also contains flavors of blood oranges and wild strawberries.

The 1989 Burgess Vintage Selection Cabernet Sauvignon was younger but no less rewarding. Its meaty aromas of beef and bresaola were complemented by fenugreek, kirsch, before revealing flavors of dark cherries, warm liquorice and citrus oils. The 2021 Sorenson’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon was a blend of vines from 1983, 1984, 1989 and 1989. This wine is Meghan Zobeck’s first production and has great potential for the future. The 2018 Diamond Creek Red Rock Terrace was also wonderful. It had a lovely balsamic nose with extra coriander, cherries and wild strawberries. Blue fruits were anchored by crushed rock, black licorice and sanguine notes.

Two excellent Zinfandels were presented at the retrospective tasting by Dry Creek Vineyards. They were the savory and generous 2019 Somers Ranch Zin (strawberry juice roll-ups made with blueberries and cherry coulis), and the 1997 Reserve Zinfandel. Both have sweet and balsamic notes that are complemented by sweet tannins, strawberry coulis and vibrant acidity.

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