It’s funny, in a way, how deeply Oregon Pinot Noir is ingrained in our wine-loving brains. It’s become one of those automatic associations–Oregon? Pinot Noir! – Yet, the grape was planted in Oregon in 1961. It has only been grown in Willamette Valley since 1965. Wine is not something you can do in a fifty-odd year. Burgundy’s Cistercian monks were cultivating Pinot Noir in the 1300s. It is good that Oregon and the Willamette Valley have been so quickly proven to be so well-suited for Pinot Noir. (Top that, monks.)
It’s a blessing that 2018 and 2019 were great for Oregon Pinot. The 2020 vintage is only beginning to hit shelves. However, it was more difficult. Willamette was covered in wildfire smoke, and Pinot production fell by over 40%. Wineries either discarded or didn’t even pick rows of the smoke-tainted grapes. Good wine was only possible for those who had the opportunity to make it. Clare Carver, of Big Table Farm, says that while we brought in all of our fruit and paid all growers in full for it, not all of that fruit was made into wine. All our best single vineyards were used in the Willamette Valley basic wine. We decided to forgo single-vineyard and barrel-selection wines. We made one wine in 2020, the best we could. Although it was a difficult business decision, it was an artistic one. I agree. Big Table’s Willamette Valley bottling is one of my favorite wines from 2020.
2020 King Estate Inscription Pinot Noir ($20)
Pinot at this price is often bland and boring. This succulent King Estate winemaker Brent Stone bottling is different. To concentrate the wine’s red raspberry and foresty herbs notes, he bleeds 10% of the juice. This technique works well in this case.
2019 Brandborg Bench Lands Pinot Noir ($23)
The Umpqua Valley is located south of the Willamette Valley. It gets less attention than it deserves, especially if wines such as this transparent, silky, savory Pinot by Elkton-based Brandborg are anything to go by.
2019 Averaen Willamette Valley pinot noir ($25)
This impressive Pinot is characterized by its tea-leafy tannins, and distinct spice notes. It comes from 15 vineyards in the Willamette Valley.
2018 Apolloni Vineyards Cuvee Pinot Noir ($26)
Alfredo Apolloni, whose family has a long history of winemaking in Tuscany, established his winery’s namesake in 1999. He and his family sustainably farm over 62 acres in Willamette’s Tualatin Hills to produce wines such as this beautiful, aromatic red.
2018 Ponzi vineyards Tavola Pinot noir ($27)
Ponzi Vineyards, a Benchmark Willamette producer, was sold to the Bollinger family of Champagne fame in 2021. However, Luisa Ponzi, the winemaker, remains on board and continues to make wines such as this crisp, juicy Pinot. It’s an absolute pleasure to drink, and perfect for picnics (cold roast chicken anyone? In the park.
2019 Raptor Ridge Barrel Select Pinot Noir ($29)
Scott Shull, Raptor Ridge’s co-owner and winemaker, makes an incredible variety of Pinots from the valley’s vineyards. This cuvee is bright and strawberry-cherry-scented, with fruit from seven of them.
NV Roco Gravel Road Pinot Noir ($30)
Rollin Soles, Roco’s winemaker and co-owner, came up with a clever solution to 2020’s smoke problems. He created a non-vintage blend that was affordable and included 2019 and 2020 wines. This creamy, textured red was a result of the plan with its glossy tannins and dark berry fruits.